How is moisturizer made
Find out what moisturizers can and can't do for your skin and how to select a moisturizer that suits your needs. Moisturizers prevent and treat dry skin. They can also protect sensitive skin, improve skin texture and mask imperfections.
You may need to try various products to find the right moisturizers for you. On the most basic level, moisturizers hold water in the outer layer of skin. Most moisturizers are water-based lotions, creams, gels and serums. They contain ingredients that draw water into the skin humectants — such as glycerin, lactic acid or urea — and others that smooth the skin emollients — such as lanolin, sunflower oil and jojoba oil.
You might want to try various moisturizers to find those that suit you. You may decide to use a cream for the eyes and neck and a lotion, which is easier to spread, for the rest of the body.
You may also want to choose moisturizers that are easy to apply and leave no visible residue. The moisturizers that are best for you depend on many factors, including your skin type, your age and whether you have specific conditions, such as acne. Consider the following:. Dry skin. Dry skin tends to be flaky, itchy or rough. To restore moisture to dry skin, choose a heavier, oil-based moisturizer that contains ingredients that help retain water.
If you have tried moisturizers but still feel dry — especially on the lower legs, feet, arms and hands — look for one that has lactic acid or lactic acid and urea in it. For very dry and cracked skin, look for ointments with petroleum jelly Vaseline, Aquaphor. They have more staying power than lotions do and are more effective at reducing water loss from the skin.
If this type of product is too greasy for daytime use, apply it at bedtime. Oily skin. Oily skin is shiny, greasy and prone to acne and breakouts. Such skin still needs moisture, especially after using skin care products that remove oils and dry the skin.
A light moisturizer can also help protect your skin after washing. Lotions generally contain a higher percentage of water than creams do, are easier to apply and are less likely to aggravate acne-prone skin. Choose a lightweight, water-based product that's labeled oil-free or noncomedogenic, which means it won't clog pores.
If you are acne-prone, avoid using products on your face that contain petroleum jelly, cocoa butter or coconut oil.
If your skin is very oily, try using a sunscreen instead of a moisturizer. Mature skin. As you age, your skin tends to become thinner, drier, less elastic and less able to protect itself from damage. To keep your skin soft and well hydrated, choose an oil-based moisturizer that contains petroleum jelly, which helps hold in moisture. Moisturizing can make fine lines and wrinkles less visible. To prevent flaky, scaly skin, you might choose products that also include antioxidants or alpha hydroxy acid.
Moisturizers often form the basis for wrinkle creams, with added retinoids, antioxidants, peptides or other ingredients. Protect yourself from the sun. Apply sunscreen daily year-round.
Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. Reapply every two hours and after swimming or sweating. You may choose a moisturizer or cosmetics that contain sunscreen. Not all moisturizers live up to their advertised claims or even contain all of their advertised ingredients. The Food and Drug Administration does not regulate cosmetics — including moisturizers — as rigorously as it does drugs.
Here are some common ingredients that go in the making of moisturizers. This is the prime ingredient of all moisturizers. Moisturizers are generally an oil-in-water solution. When you apply moisturizers, some of the water evaporates while some gets absorbed into the skin. The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum soaks water efficiently; however, it is not able to bind it very well. That's why it needs an oily substance that helps lock in the water within the skin, and this is how moisturizers work.
The water contents get absorbed within the skin and the oil content helps keep it there. Occlusives are the substances that block the evaporation of water. Petrolatum and other such oily ingredients are common occlusives used in moisturizers. In fact, petrolatum is a primary ingredient in many moisturizers, often listed as the third or fourth ingredient of the formulation.
Some of the other common occlusives are cetyl alcohol, lanolin, lecithin, mineral oil, paraffin, and stearic acid. Popular silicones that act as occlusives are dimethicone and cyclomethicone. Oil-free moisturizers that are free of all mineral and vegetable oils contain dimethicone as an occlusive agent.
The flask is then left to equilibrate for a few hours. Afterward, any active agent that was not trapped by the lipid vesicle formation must be washed away [10].
The liposomes will then be immersed in the moisturizer, which contains little or no active agent [10]. Instead, a freeze drying method is used to coat flask walls with lipids [9]. Figure 4: The chemical structure of phospholipids determines how liposomes are made. The liposome migrates into the cornified layer, breaking as it comes into contact with the horn-like cells, much like a balloon that floats into sharp shrubbery and then pops.
These pieces of liposome lipids will migrate into the stratum corneum [8], forming an occlusive barrier that slows water loss through the skin. Since it cannot easily cross over the hydrophobic lipid tails, the water will remain within the layers of the skin. Here, the liposome walls are serving the same function that oil-soluble products serve in emulsions.
The agent will escape from the vesicle when it breaks in the cornified layer. After the active agent is released, it will migrate further into the skin. The active agent will be more concentrated inside the skin than it would if it were evenly dispersed throughout the entire product for two reasons.
First, a concentrated amount of the agent is introduced directly inside the skin when the vesicle breaks. Second, the vesicular membrane has again formed an occlusive layer at the top of the stratum corneum, which seals the active agent into the skin [8]. Benefits of Using Vesicular Systems The use of vesicles to deliver active agents to the skin has a variety of advantages over distributing active agents throughout the entire product.
The increased retention of the active agent within the skin as described above is one of them. Storing the active agent inside a vesicle also protects it within the product until it is ready to be used by keeping it in a more stable environment. It is not subjected to a high concentration of the aqueous medium when inside liposomes, and therefore it is less susceptible to degradation [11]. Also, because the vesicles travel slightly into the skin before releasing the active agent, the layers of skin above the release point are not exposed to the agent.
Since most agents are not targeting these upper layers anyway, the use of vesicles makes them more effective and less likely to have side effects [11]. Another advantage liposomes hold over emulsions is that they do not contain as many surfactants. Once surfactants come into contact with the skin, they often emulsify the sebum on the top layer. This is not always desirable, as the sebum could then be stripped away, leaving the skin without its protective barrier and therefore prone to irritation [3].
Products that can benefit from using liposomes include moisturizers that contain components such as Vitamin A Fig.
Occasionally, derivatives of Vitamin A may cause irritation when applied to the skin [5]. Therefore, it may be useful to incorporate Vitamin A into liposomes, which can migrate slightly into the skin and then release their contents. That way, the Vitamin A is carried to where it can actually be of use. Areas that do not need Vitamin A closer to the surface of the skin are subjected to lower concentrations of it, causing less irritation.
Figure 5: An interactive graphic featuring the benefits of different skin-moisturizing agents. Emulsions and vesicular systems both serve the important function of retaining or increasing water content in the skin by incorporating some hydrophobic components, and the two processes are not mutually exclusive.
While emulsions of oil and water have been used for centuries, liposomes have appeared only in the last few decades. Even when liposomes are used in a product, the product will most likely contain an emulsion, too. Liposomes, however, have been shown to have advantages that emulsions do not, making them a wise addition to many products. By concentrating special agents in the skin layers, which actually benefit from them, liposomes can both increase their effectiveness and decrease the risk of irritation.
They also require a smaller amount of these active agents than emulsions, which must have the agents dispersed evenly throughout the whole product.
Even when liposomes contain water soluble active agents, they still provide a partially occlusive barrier to the skin.
This barrier function is accomplished by the phospholipids that make up the vesicle walls of the liposome. The occlusive barrier will prevent both water and the active agent from leaving the skin, another way in which active agent effectiveness is increased.
Emulsions will probably always serve a vital function in cosmetics and in a wide array of other products, ranging from foods to pharmaceuticals to household products. As a more recent development than emulsions, their full value to the cosmetics industry has not yet been realized.
The use of liposomes in cosmetics can be expected to increase in the future. You can also make pretty wonderful lip products with the butter as a base find our suggestions for several balms here.
This is the classic go-to for sunburns and soothing gels for a reason. It is high in vitamins A, C, E, and B12, which help reduce damage done by free radicals; it also contains inflammation-reducing enzymes. Try it at home: Why mess with success —the most popular and easy way to use the plant is simply by slicing open a leaf and applying the gel topically.
Use it on a fresh burn, along with one drop of pure lavender essential oil. And don't be surprised by the odd smell of raw aloe—it's more pungent than you'd expect.
Oat, oat extract, and colloidal oat is a favorite ingredient in sensitive skin care products , as it is found to be very calming for irritated skin. Research shows that this is due to its anti-inflammatory properties , as well as antihistamine effects, which is why it's so often used to soothe atopic allergic reactions.
Try it at home: Try drawing a colloidal oat bath or oats ground to a fine powder, so it mixes in with the water , which is especially effective for any itchiness caused by dry skin. Mix in 1 cup to your warm bath water as it's running. This mealtime essential is a skin care savior thanks to the plethora of waxes, minerals, proteins, and vitamins—with studies suggesting it can be a nourishing antioxidant treat for the skin.
Also of note: Avocado oil, which is extracted from the pulp, has been shown to increase collagen synthesis in one study. Try it at home: There are plenty of at-home avocado masks out there—many including other items on this list, like honey, yogurt, and oat. To get you started, a half avocado, mashed, is a good base. Studies have shown that this will likely be one of your best natural options for improving barrier function : The oil, high in linoleic acid , improves skin's hydration and lipid synthesis, without causing irritation.
It's also shown to be noncomedogenic. Try it at home: If you want a lighter oil for a face wash, especially if you are acne-prone, sunflower seed oil will be ideal for cleansing—in fact, many of the popular oil face washes contain the ingredient. You can also use it as a light body oil, applied to wet skin.
There might not be as much research for the vegetable's skin care benefits, but there is a reason it's used so often in spas: It can be highly soothing for tired or inflamed skin. Not only is the high water content hydrating, but studies suggest the other nutrients in the juice can help reduce swelling as well. Try it at home: If you have time in the morning, skip the jade rollers or refrigerated spoons, and opt-for this old-school technique—simply place two chilled slices over your eyes to de-puff and energize skin.
Here's a great body moisturizer: The emollient has been shown in one study to help reduce the appearance and formation of stretch marks. It's been shown to have photo-protective effects on the skin as well, as it can help reduce the damage of photo-aging. Try it at home: You can make pretty great body oils with just a few simple ingredients— like this luxe, yet inexpensive, recipe. Fermented dairy products contain lactic acid , a favorite among estheticians and dermatologists due to its gentle exfoliation and hydration properties.
They also contain tons of good-for-your-skin-microbiome probiotics, which recent research shows can be beneficial for acne-prone skin when taken orally or even topically.
The combo of these two actives makes for a great skin treatment: One study found that natural yogurt masks improved the moisture , elasticity, and brightness of the skin. Try it at home: First and foremost: Always opt for organic, no-sugar-added options.
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